“The history of Portugal is not that of Europe,” said the Nobel Prizewinning Portuguese author José Saramago, “but the history of Europe would be unimaginable without that of Portugal.” These are, after all, the people who discovered a sea route to India, who established colonies in Brazil and Macau, who were the first to circumnavigate the globe. Today, Portugal’s borders are much shrunken. It is overshadowed by its larger neighbour, Spain, while its ancient capital, Lisbon, is often neglected in favor of the southerly lure of the Algarve’s beach resorts. Something of a connoisseur’s tip over the past couple of decades of its gradual re-emergence into the contemporary world, recent government investment and redevelopment associated with its role as European City of Culture in 1994, and events such as Expo ’98, mean that Lisbon is now attracting more attention than ever, and is poised to take its place as one of the European destinations not to be missed.

The imperial past is evident everywhere, most obviously in the countless royal statues which have outlived the actual monarchy and benignly survey the goings-on in the city’s squares and avenues. That of Dom Pedro IV is of particular note, not only for the magisterial height of its pillar which towers above the cafés of the Rossio, but because the history of this statue offers a certain insight into the survival of Portugal’s imperial heritage, and a glimpse into the psyche of its people. The statue actually portrays Maximilian of Mexico, who happened to be assassinated while his likeness was in the port of Lisbon awaiting shipment. Rather than being allowed to go to waste, the statue was renamed and installed on its column, in the belief, perhaps, that from a such great height, all kings look alike.

Today, Portugal’s expansive imperial past translates, variously, into a mixture of races on the streets, a thriving musical scene centered around the traditional “fado”, and the kaleidoscopic international menus on offer around the city. And everywhere you can wash down your meal with very affordable and fabulously drinkable Portuguese wines which may not always travel well but which, from the crisp vinhos verdes, or “green wines”, to the rich reds of the Dão, are nothing short of inspiring in their country of origin.

NIGHTLIFE

Though a very Catholic country, it has a very South American not European feel. You needn't go to a gay hang-out to meet that Portugese boy of your dreams, but there is a gay quarter which you'll find between the old Rossio station down to south of the Polytechnic in the Rato. You can cruise openly in the clubs or bars in Bairro Alto or Principe Real. Then move on to Frágil in the Bairro Alto for a heady mix of house and vodka. Post-industrial and post gay it's habitués are gay, bi, straight or whatever. If you want boys only fun then try Bric-a-bar with the tunes accompanied by porno projected on the walls plus shadowy backrooms upstairs if you just can't wait to get back to your hotel room. And if you want to get steamed up check out Spartacus which offers just about anything you want including videos, cabins, a sauna, a steam bath, a Jacuzzi, back-room action, a very varied crowd, and much more!

But whatever you do, believe the guide books when they tell you nothing starts till late. I turn up at half past one on a Tuesday morning at Finalmente, only to be advised by the matronly woman at the door: “You’re very early.” Sure enough, the tiny club is empty except for three lanky teenagers practicing dance moves, but by three in the morning, it’s packed wall-to-wall for the stylish drag homages to English, Spanish and Greek pop stars which constitute the “Travesty Shows”. When you do finally slump into your bed as the sun is rising, you can always take comfort from the fact that the morning starts late as well: no need to think about breakfast in a café before at least eleven, when many stores will just be opening their doors.